Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Welcome (back) to the jungle - Nico and Beni do Madidi

Following some time in La Paz learning about the coca plant and watching tourists attempt to bribe their way into cocaine-riddled San Pedro Prison, Beni and I spent a couple of tranquil days in beautiful Sorata. Then it was back (bearing an herbal gift from our friendly hostel owner) to La Paz and north on a different road which joined at times the Most Dangerous Road in the World; that got us to Coroico and then Rurrenbaque, jumping-off point for trips into the rainforest of Madidi National Park.



What our location lacked in animal life it more than made up for in plants; the rainforest stocks more medication than we ever imagined. "Are there any plants that don't treat embarrassing medical conditions?" At the time, Beni's question was fair - we'd only seen a natural substitute for Viagra and a bark that fought hemorrhoids up to that point. We then discovered some more normal ones including leaves rubbed together to ease up sinusitis and wood rubbed on skin to drive away mosquitos.

The jungle knows its share of fun too - we tripped over "magic" mushrooms (unfortunately too dry for use) growing out of a log on our path and harvested leaves from the huara shrub known in Peruvian slang as marihuara. Unlike the mushrooms, these needed to be dried before use. More odd was the reverse-Viagra plant which was uniquely useful, according to our guide, "in case you want to get into the pants of your friend´s girlfriend."

But the biggest surprise was yet to come. According to our guide, the cure for (or at least prevention of) cancer has already been found(!) and lies in the wood of thin branches also notable for the huge amount of clean water stored inside that we drank simply cutting a piece off and angling it downwards. Sure as hell filled up my bottle with that water.



Also notable from the trip were my extremely ungraceful attempted sideways running dismount from the Tarzan swing and the French guy who wouldn't stop smoking yet still had the energy to climb up every giant tree we save (and the Tarzan swing). He also went swimming wearing only underwear and a funny hat.

Truth be told, in my case George of the Jungle swing is probably more appropriate.

Check back soon for Agent Salt - Nico and Beni do Uyuni.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Wavin' Flag - Nico does Sucre

Just days after I arrived in Sucre the whole city stopped to celebrate the Fiesta de Patrias, Bolivia's equivalent of July 4th. Since Sucre is the capital (and site of Bolivia's initial declaration of independence), every school, including my very own Fox Language School, was required to march in the parade.

Upon meeting up to march, however, Fox had a special surprise for me and the four other foreign students who had come to march with the local kids - huge-ass regional and international flags present to symbolize Fox's international focus. A few minutes later I was marching proudly through the streets of Sucre waving the Stars and Stripes in front of their Independence Plaza (25 de Mayo) and own version of a Liberty Bell. Felt pretty damn patriotic (and brotherly; we are, after all, cousins in liberation and democracy).

Though I had expected booing given the US's poor relationship with Bolivia, I received far more cheers than jeers. I learned later that Sucreans hate Bolivia´s president Evo Morales almost as much as Evo Morales hates the US. For them, the enemy of their enemy must be a friend. To quote my Spanish teacher after I commented on his president, "El Presidente, no mi presidente - The President, not my president."

In front of me, Kate was half-heartedly carrying the Australian flag, nearly considered treason for a Kiwi like herself. Just imagine a gun-toting Texan being told to carry the Mexican flag and you'll get the idea.

Admittedly, I could not take full credit for the crowd's cheers. On my left marched my Scottish buddy Neale carrying a regional Bolivian flag. His appeal, however, lay not in his flag but rather in his clothing - a revealing kilt straight from the motherland.

I post this after finally leaving Sucre, my home for a month of Spanish lessons, Bolivian cooking, drinking, playing (WallyBall, Rackuet, Poker, Ping Pong, Pool, Foosball), dancing, hiking, flirting with Bolivian girls, and movies with popcorn covered in chili powder. Good times.

Today I meet up with big brother Binny and begin more adventures on the road.

Check back soon for Welcome (back) to the jungle - Nico and Binny do Rurrenbaque.