Argentina at last. After four months of stumbling through developing countries whose roads weren't complete without a ditch every few steps and idea of hygiene was - well, let's not go into that - I had finally reached the promised land.
The change in atmosphere was immediate. The border crossing was simple, clear, and efficient and we were waved through with a smile and a joke. The taxi refused to take all five of us at once; apparently, we were now in a country with actual rules and safety measures. Sort of inconvenient.
Our first stop was Salta where we sat down to the first of many steaks and bottles of wine at amazing value. "Isn't that a little bit unhealthy?" "I'm assuming that the red wine will balance out all the cholesterol from the steaks. Pretty sure it works that way." Couple days later we rented a car and began a road trip down through ancient rock formations - including a gaping hole in the ground known as the Devil's Throat and a giant toad - towards the northern wine district of Cafayete for tastings galore. Next day we passed through beautiful Cachi and thousands of cacti, stopping briefly to witness dozens of majestic Andean condors lift off and glide up through the adjacent mountains.
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